Encounters with elephants in Kenya
‘Extinction sucks - get involved, get informed, evolve!' So says the welcome board at the Rukinga Wildlife Sanctuary - and that is just what I did. I'd wanted to return to Africa since working in education in South Africa in the 1980s - Africa does indeed ‘get in the blood'. Not wishing to go back simply as a tourist, and seeking a new adventure, I signed up to join the Elephants of Tsavo expedition in December 2008.
6 December
Meeting at the Fairview Hotel in Nairobi, the team piled into two Landrovers for the long trip to Tsavo. The volunteers happened to be an all female group - six professionals covering an age range of 22 to 60, and four countries between us. We were ably led by scientist Dr. Barbara McKnight and supported by two brilliant field staff, Ben and Chege, who also drove us. We quickly bonded and are so far still in touch. It's quite a way to Tsavo and the road is very poor in places - even though it is the main route from Nairobi to Mombasa. A ‘pitstop' at a community centre and school caused children to come running over, and it was then I wished I had brought fewer clothes and more sweets and pens for local children.
7 December
Arriving at the lovely Voi Wildlife Lodge, a huge bull elephant had kindly decided to be present by the adjacent waterhole. As the sun set on our first day in Tsavo, it seemed a million miles (not a mere 5,000) from London and my daily commute.
8 December
The day was allocated for training and orientation, and I was glad I'd read most of the recommended works before I came. Barbara briefed us on the research, the habitat/geographical area, and the way elephants migrate across it. Information about historical context - serious droughts in the 1970s followed by poaching and ivory wars in the 1980s - provided the context for more practical information like how to distinguish male from female, how to estimate elephant age, and basics of elephant physiology and behaviour. We were also taught how to use GPS and range finding equipment, and how to complete data sheets - as well as learning about all the other animals we would be likely to encounter.
It was a fascinating day, but, of course, being the fourth day since most of us had left home, we were anxious to get out and set to work.
9-10 December
We headed off for Rukinga. Right away there were signs, footprints and trunk trails which were pointed out. It was amazing how, in the dense bush of Rukinga, animals of such size could be concealed and difficult to spot so close to the road - until, of course, a mock charge was threatened! But dense bush suddenly gave way to spectacular vistas, where recent rain meant it was very green over most of the research area. The edge of the range of Kilimanjaro was visible in the distance. Climbing a rocky outcrop at a picnic spot, with a 360 degree view of Africa in all her glory, I felt on top of the world. The sheer volume of air - especially after London - was incredible. Working in teams to note location, size, type and activities of groups and individual elephants, we felt we were really adding to the knowledge of elephant behaviour in the area. Almost 100 elephants for our team on the first day was pretty good going, and the second day our good fortune continued. Ben and Chege were brilliant and could spot a giraffe hidden in dense trees at 300 yards.
11 December
The Tsavo elephant migrations cover both the east and west areas of the park which is, significantly, cut in half by the highway from Nairobi to Mombasa. This means elephants sometimes need to cross roads and railway lines to move from one (unfenced) area of the park to the other. The elephants approach human habitations, and this is where the problem of human-elephant conflict can arise. Today's task was checking the extent to which the local population encroaches on the park by illegally grazing animals, and we counted hundreds of cattle and goats close to the busy road.
12 December
Totally enthused, and by now feeling we were also experts, some of us opted on the ‘recreational day' to forgo the pleasures of the swimming pool at the lodge and to make the most of things by hiring a local driver to take us out for an early dawn run. It seemed strange to view animals without having to check GPS coordinates. Returning for a hearty late brunch, some of us then took a trip into Voi. The local market was colourful, but a tremendous contrast with the commercialism of Christmas that I had left behind in London. By this time our Swahili was beginning to take off as we greeted lodge staff and each other with a cheery ‘jambo' (hello), ‘habari?' (how are you?) and replied ‘mzuri sana' (fine, very well).
13- 14 December
The next four days provided the main body of the work as the two teams did a ‘sweep' of the main part of Tsavo East to find out exactly where the elephants were. The terrain varied enormously - from thick bush where it was surprisingly tricky to spot these enormous animals, to lush green areas where innumerable family groups clustered near to the roadside, their ears slowly opening and closing like butterflies' wings to cool themselves - as abundant as New Forest ponies. In other places we experienced threatened charges by majestic lone bulls, or sometimes we were able to see literally hundreds strung across the plains (a record 642 elephants in one afternoon). Powerful binoculars are a must!
But it wasn't only elephants. Elegant giraffe, zebra and many types of gazelle also filled the breathtaking landscape. We picnicked on river banks, saw herds of buffalo and spotted warthogs, hippos, baboons, jackals, wildcats and large groups of mongooses. Our guides were brilliant at spotting and identifying birdlife and we saw many types of birds with fantastic colouring - as well as the more dramatic birds of prey.
The description of the expedition as ‘easy' on the website was accurate but, almost on the equator at midsummer, it was hot. It was consequently demanding to be standing up for 10 hours on the look-out for elephants, especially during the hottest part of the day when there was less to see. We were thus always ready for the breakfasts, packed lunches and dinners that were supplied. But the best thing about dinner was comparing experiences with the other group - as well as discussing some of the bigger issues such as the ivory ban and poaching. After dinner each evening we always adjourned to the look-out point overlooking the waterhole, where the elephants would come down in the evening. It was a full moon on 12 December and there is, quite simply, nothing on earth that compares with watching elephants in the moonlight. Perfect.
15 December
Lions! It would almost have been too much to expect that having come to research elephants, we would also get to see lions, but our luck was in. On the penultimate day there they were, a group of five lionesses with cubs playing round the carcass of a recent kill - conveniently just 30 metres from the road. The lionesses and cubs were displaced by two large males the next day when all that remained of the poor zebra was the rib cage - such is the circle of life and death.
16 December
By the time the last day arrived I felt I had learned a great deal, as well as having been able to contribute to a very worthwhile project. The overall experience was totally magnificent and I wouldn't have missed it for the world. It is one thing to visit a national park as a tourist in a safari bus or even a private car - but quite another to be part of a research project such as this - and become so ‘up close and personal' with the animals. Don't just think about it - do it. The elephants need you!
Report by Valerie Shrimplin
Volunteer on the Elephants of Tsavo expedition.
Read journalist Michelle Jana Chan's account of her experience on Elephants of Tsavo in
‘Going on a trip to count Kenya's elephants'.