Mary Ellen Rowe and Malene Christensen, both Earthwatch staffers, went on Team I of the Amazon Riverboat Expedition. They had a teleconference with future team members and volunteers when they returned - this is a transcript of that session.
Amazon Riverboat Exploration
Other teleconference Q&A's
What does a typical day look like on the expedition?
It starts the night before, when you choose which survey to do the next day. The macaw survey begins earlier in the morning, the dolphin one later in the day, and the caiman one at night. There are other surveys to choose from, too. Transect walking can take up to 7 hours, and you're brought to the land in small boats. Usually, the other surveys last between 3-4 hours. On this expedition, you'll be observing and recording your observations of animals.
What kinds of animals will we see on the expedition?
You can see 10 different species of monkeys, Amazonian squirrels, red rocket deer, bats, giant river otters, and manatees. It depends on what time of year you go, since the river is high in March and the forest is flooded. After March, the water level goes down, but it begins to climb back up again in December. July is one of the dryer times of year.
Did you get to swim in the river?
River swimming is not allowed during the expedition. Exposure to microorganisms, the current, piranhas and caiman is too great.
How about the bugs? Is it helpful to wear netting?
We dealt with two types of bugs on the expedition: no see 'ums and mosquitos. When the boat was stopped at the research site, and when we were doing boat based projects such as macaws, dolphins and fishing tasks, we were surprised to find uncovered skin covered in circular welts. These were no see 'ums, also known as sand fleas. You need to cover your skin to avoid being bitten, via clothes, though perhaps a head net might be helpful. Clothes also protect against sunburn, so are preferable. Deet won't help.
When we were walking transects, we would take a break at the end before coming back in order to let the animals settle down or return to the trail. During this break, you can be bothered by bugs, so bring a bug repellant with DEET.
When we were stationary, we had to deal with mosquitoes. Deet will be also be helpful here, as the bugs can bite through your clothes. Head nets may be helpful here as well.
What was helpful for both types of insects, was to purchase the hand held fans available for a dollar or two in Iquitos. Fanning yourself keeps insects away in the boat and on transects. It also helps to keep you cool.
The mosquitoes aren't quite as much of an issue in Lago Preto. Also, the boat cabins are air-conditioned, so you won't need bed netting at night.
Do you recommend a special brand of Deet?
Look for high percentages, and apply it with the backs of your hands to avoid contaminating things such as your binoculars and cameras. Some recommend washing your clothes with FiteBite.
Do you always need to cover up?
When the boat is moving, you won't have to deal as much with insects, but be very careful of sun exposure. Most volunteers wore less in the evenings and while in transit to and from the research site.
Boots: thigh-high or knee-high?
Knee-high rubber boots are required for walking transects. You can buy them at any outdoor sporting or hiking store, and the price usually varies depending on how nice they are. You'll be hiking a long distance in them, so make sure they're comfortable. One idea is to buy bigger boots than you need and wear thicker socks. Out on surveys like the one for dolphins, you should wear shoes that you don't mind getting wet, as the smaller boats sometimes have water pooled in the bottom.
Are jeans too heavy?
Yes.
What did you sleep in?
A bed. Just kidding. T-shirts will work, but if your roommate likes A/C and you tend to get cold, you may want to bring long johns. We had no blankets, just a flat sheet.
How are the pillows?
I heard no complaints about these, which were on the firm side.
Do we need to bring our own snacks?
Snacks are provided, but you are welcome to bring your favorites from home if you like. During some of the transects, you may be away longer than you thought you would be, and in any case people often end up eating on schedules that don't match what you do at home. It helps to have something handy, especially on transects as you could be away from the boat for up to 7 hours. Also, you will need to be sure to fill your water bottles before any activity that involves leaving the big boat.
Will Chocolate melt?
Absolutely - before you get from the airport to your hotel, or from the hotel to the boat, though there is a refrigerator once you're on the boat. Bring M&Ms - the candy shell prevents them from melting.
Can we buy snacks in Iquitos?
Yes, there are convenience stores that sell all sorts of candy, though if you want trail mix, dried fruit or your favorite granola bars, you may want to bring them from home. Some folks like to bring their own coffee or tea bags.
What's the one item you wish you'd brought?
M&Ms. I think some volunteers wish they'd brought more changes of clothes, but you should just keep one set to wear when you know you're going to get really dirty (generally on the trails) and think about rinsing shirts, not drying them. Please bear in ming that clothes may take a few days to dry. Though this wasn't a problem for most volunteers, I wished I'd brought one of those small foldable camp chairs with just a seat and a back. There's no back support or cushioning on the macaws, fishing and caiman boats.
What did you bring that you didn't use?
Books - there always seemed to be too much to gaze at or too many great conversations going on.
Where else did you travel in Peru?
The best advice is to read about Peru ahead of time and figure out which sites you'd like to see and which places to experience.
In Iquitos, there is a zoo where you can get close to the animals; there is a canopy walk and there is a floating village nearby. These can all be day trips from Iquitos. At the floating village, you can take a tour through the marketplace and hire a boat to paddle you around. The trick is to find a good guide, and there is a man named Jorge who works at a local Iquitos museum who is very reliable and a great guide.
In Lima, some of us have also been to the Archaeological Museum, the Gold Museum, and the catacombs of the Convent of San Francisco - these are all highly recommended.
Elsewhere in Peru, Machu Picchu is spectacular, if you are interested in hiking the Inca trail make sure to make your reservations early!
The ancient capital of Cusco is a must. A visit to Sacsayhuaman, an easy day trip out of Cusco, is also recommended.
The Colca Canyon outside Arequipa is also recommended, it is a good place to spot Condors and it is well worth spending a couple of days in Arequipa. Other places to visit include the Nazca Lines, Paracas Bird Reserve and Lake Titicaca.
Of course, Earthwatch has archaeological projects in Peru, and a Macaws of the Peruvian Amazon project. You could always consider joining one of those before or after your Riverboat Expedition.
Has the boat been repaired?
Yes, the motor has been fixed and the plumbing's been repaired. Fortunately, the A/C and electricity were not compromised, even for those intrepid souls scoping things out for you on team 1.
What restaurants would you recommend in Iquitos?
Dr. Richard Bodmer will most likely take volunteers to Fitzcarraldo's on the first night of your expedition (at your own expense).
The Yellow Rose of Texas: Best French Toast I've ever had. American owned and the owner will talk your ears off. Great for all sorts of advice, so visit him as soon as you get there and tell him I said hello.
These are within easy walking distance of your hotel.
Is it safe to eat ceviche in Lima?
Yes, at the better restaurants.
What's the name of the hotel that we'll be staying in on the first night?
Hotel Maranon - it's a very pleasant place, not too far from the water. They have a pool, so bring your bathing suit. Bring your earplugs as the street noise penetrates the walls.
How were the meals on the boat?
The chef was good, but he didn't always have a lot to work with and there was a fair amount of repetition, especially towards the end. There weren't a whole lot of desserts, so if you like sweets, bring some. You should like rice, whether you're a vegetarian or a meat eater. For meat eaters, there was usually cooked meat on the bone, and occasionally chicken or fish, and rice. The fish is what you catch on the river. Everyone liked the taste, but it tends to be bony. For the vegetarians, there was rice and lentils, or rice and chickpeas, and lots of cabbage and beets. Lots.
How much rain will we get?
Team 1 was there at the end of the rainy season, but there wasn't much rain and it didn't affect our activities. Impossible to predict, and delightful to behold, the rainfalls will probably be considerably less for teams 3, 4 and 5.
What currency do we need to buy things on the boat?
The boat takes US dollars, British sterling, Peruvian Soles, EU Euros, Brazilian Reals and Colombian Pesos (and they have no preference as to which you use). They also take Visa credit cards. You won't be spending any money at stops in the jungle because the villages are very remote; you won't find gift shops out here!
Can we bring things for the villagers?
You can, but it's absolutely not necessary. We don't want to set a precedent for the villagers to expect gifts or money. If you'd like, you can bring gifts like baseball caps or soap that can be given to villagers through the project and not individually. You can let Dr. Bodmer know when you arrive that you have something to give them. Dr. Bodmer's focus is on community-based conservation, and he does a lot of work with the community. If you would like to donate anything to the local communities, please coordinate with Dr. Bodmer first.
What kinds of inoculations do you recommend?
You should talk to a travel clinic for specific information about shots. Anti-malarial pills are a good idea. You shouldn't need a rabies shot, since you won't be handling animals on the expedition, but stay away from stray animals in Iquitos. Again, please discuss any health concerns you may have with a travel clinic or your own health care provider.